So I gave had Zombicide sitting in a box for about a year and a half. The game is ok, just ok. Well, maybe a little better than ok, but then how much strategy can you have with a zombie game? Open up as many doors as soon as possible in the game, and try not to kill any zombies until the last little bit of the game… And if possible, Hotwire the car and run ’em down.
The minis are ok. They are bendy plastic, not the hard plastic that you get with Warhammer, Kings of War, etc. that is not a deal breaker, but the minis have very little relief, meaning too many or too thick of a coat of paint loses the detail. They have good relief on the character minis, but poor relief on most of the monster minis. Meh. For a $100 box of cardboard bad plastic, it would be really nice to have higher quality sculpts. What they miss in quality, they make up in quantity, sort of. There are a lot of zombies. However, that isn’t much of a big deal, since another $0.50 worth of plastic material would double the zombies again.
Anyhow, the game is ok, maybe a little better than ok. The minis are ok, but disappointing after painting other minis. Take a look at the Reaper plastic minis. They are ultra cheap, but they have nice definition. I like the metal Reaper minis, and try not to buy the Reaper plastic ones, if at all possible. I don’t like bendy minis.
I may sound like I am a little grumpy. Maybe I am. It is freakishly hot out. Bleh. I prefer cool. I like rain. 100 degrees is exactly 25 degrees hotter than it should be. If I wanted this type of weather, I would live in Arizona or southern Idaho.
Anyhow, on to the pictures.
All of the pictures are taken under a very bright white light. I use the white LED light to see the detail. This makes the minis look a lot more vibrant than they are. The red for blood is actually quite more subtle under natural or fluorescent lights.
I figure zombies can have comb overs. The box-O-zombies had a lot of bald men. Few had any hair, so I improvised.
Below is Combover zombie man with the ink wash. The ink flows to the cracks and recessed areas, leaving a really nice definition for painting.
Below are two fatty zombies. Both have similar paint schemes. The tee shirts are an off white (P3 Menoth White Highlight) , the zombie skin is Army Painter “Zombie Skin”. The details pop with a basic wash of Army Painter “Zombie Shader”.
Below are three fatty zombies all dressed up with no place to ghoul.
Sorry, I had to say it.
The blood is actually a layering of three different red paints. The first layer is Army Painter “Crusted Sore”. It provides a flat dark red. A lighter shading of Army Painter “Glistening Blood”. The final paint layer is GW / Citadel technical paint “Blood for the Blood Gods”. After that was done, the final step was to apply a thinned GW / Citadel “Nurgles Rot”. These minis have a lighter shade of Nurgles Rot than the others… I didn’t mix up the paint pot well, and the first three came out looking more toxic. I actually liked the effect…
Below is another view of the Fatties.
Below are some Walkers. Same paint scheme for blood
They look very very very very bloody. I wanted them to be a little over the top in gore. I typically paint minis for board games so they will be very visible on the board. If feel that you paint for pop at 3-ft, they look overdone at 4 inches. If you paint the minis to pop at 4-inches, then they look bat and muddy at 3-feet.
Below is another view of the zombie horde at another angle.
Below is Mr. Combover and friend, looking to meet up with some new friends.
Another view of Mr. Combover and friend.
Here are some ladies who should best be left alone.
Below are some more details from the walkers.
Last picture, some runners
So so all well and good. The Zombicide minis have a minimal number of sculpts. I am pretty meh on the game play.
So will I get the other sets and paint up the minis? Probably. My son likes the game a lot. If he wants to play, I can be talked into painting.